By Linda Pasquini and Marleen Kaesebier
(Reuters) - Hugo Boss warned of much slower sales growth this year and forecast a profit below analyst estimates, sending shares in the German fashion house down 17% on Thursday and set for their worst session in eight years.
It expects sales growth of 3% to 6% to around 4.30-4.45 billion euros, it said, below the 4.56 billion seen by analysts a company-provided poll and sharply below 18% growth in 2023.
"This triggers concerns about possibly fiercer promotional activity this year weighing on the gross margin," said Cedric Rossi, next-gen consumer analyst at Bryan Garnier.
Its profit outlook also disappointed as it forecast earnings before interest and taxes (EBIT) of 430-475 million euros, up from 410 million in 2023 but below the 490 million expected by analysts.
Hugo Boss last year continued to benefit from its 2022 brand revamp which brought in new customers in Asia and helped to support sales despite weakening demand in Europe.
However, unfavourable currency effects coupled with an increasingly promotional market dampened margin improvement at the end of 2023, the company said.
Its shares were down 17% to 52.24 euros at 10:31 GMT.
The company warned its 2025 revenue goal of 5 billion euros might be delayed as consumers facing inflation and a surge in borrowing costs cut discretionary spending.
"It's too early to say exactly how much we are going to be delayed, if we are going to be delayed," CEO Daniel Grieder said in a media call.
The group still expects its EBIT margin to reach at least 12% by 2025 versus 9.8% last year.
The company flagged cautious consumer trends especially in the UK and Germany, and flatter growth rates in China compared to the wider Asia/Pacific region.
The luxury and apparel sector had to discount products in the final months of last year aiming to reduce inventories as demand slowed.
The group said it aimed to make its operations more efficient as well as rein in costs to help its gross margin in 2024.
The company is still spending money, just more cautiously, Grieder said, adding job cuts are not planned.
($1 = 0.9174 euros)
(Reporting by Linda Pasquini and Marleen Kaesebier in Gdansk; additional reporting by Helen Reid; Editing by Varun H K and Mark Potter)
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